GLOBETROTTER

Driven and passionate, even after a recent cancer scare Margarita A. Fores pursues her interests with her signature zest and bright smile.

Anyone who knows Margarita Forés knows that despite her petite frame, she is a powerhouse of energy. Best-known for her restaurants (Cibo, Café Bola, Pepato), her catering business, and her passion for food and creating culinary marvels, this 48-year-old mother can do an interview, welcome guests into her restaurant, and consult with her catering staff all in the same minute (we know, we witnessed it). Could anything slow her down? Last year, she discovered a cancerous lump in her throat. She had it removed and since then continues to see her doctors for checkups and maintenance treatments, seemingly without missing a beat. Right now, she’s planning her yearly sojourn to Italy and mulling over future plans for her businesses, but everything is still up in the air. ‘’My plans are never really deliberate,’’ she explains, laughing. ‘’It’s always last-minute. So I always tell my travel agent, ‘Look, here’s your client from hell!’’’

How often do you travel and where do you go?
I do a lot of short trips within Asia. Also, since I got sick, I’ve been seeing some doctors in Singapore and San Francisco. Italy is the country I’ve been to the most, but I’m dying to visit Africa and Turkey.

How many countries have you visited?
Seventeen, all in all. I was looking at a book compilation of the 150 best cities. It has everything from Mumbai to some cities I had never heard of. I counted and I’ve been to 31—that’s not a lot, right?

What makes you want to visit a place?
It will always be the cuisine for me. Also, some sort of magical attraction to it: I was just reading about the city of Petra in Jordan, where it was carved into a mountain, that’s something I wouldn’t mind seeing. Also the lore of South America: Brazil or Colombia.

What’s your usual itinerary when you travel?
First, get the work stuff out of the way: buying ingredients and supplies. Then I go to the market. After, I do the restaurants—a mix of old haunts and new ones I want to try. I also like to take a map and walk through the streets— that’s when I include the shopping. I’m the type to pack in a lot in one day, so there’s enough time to see everything.

What is your most memorable travel experience?
I was with my boyfriend Alvin in London and we were about to cross the street. I was in awe of these flowers in a shop that I just went straight and a car hit me on my hip! I flew and hit my temple on the edge of the curb. My watch and shopping bags flew, but people helped collect all my stuff and put them inside my shopping bags—I didn’t lose anything.

What is your ultimate dream destination?
To take my entire cooking staff to Alba, Italy, when the truffles are being harvested and auctioned off. It would be so nice to bring my employees, my son Amado—because he loves truffles—my boyfriend who’s also a foodie, and my friend Jappy.

FAVORITES
Outfit to wear on the plane: Really comfortable black stretch slacks by Gap or Prada, a black cotton T-shirt and, if I’m going to a cold place, a thin woolen black shirt. If it’s a really long trip, I bring a pair of drawstring gym pants and a long-sleeved T-shirt, which I change into the minute the plane takes off. Plus travel slippers and an old Hermès scarf—the threads are really frayed, but it has sentimental value. One time I left it in the airport lounge, but British Airways found it and I got it back!

Handcarry bag: For long trips a black weekender-size ‘’Giant’’ Balenciaga bag with gold studs—the leather is really soft and you can store it under the seat. For shorter trips, a black and charcoal large-size ‘’Ring’’ Balenciaga bag.

Destinations
Cities: New York, Milan, Rome, Florence.

Hotel: If I’m traveling with family to Hong Kong, we try to get The Peninsula.

Spa: In 2004 I went to Chiva-Som luxury health resort by myself just to recharge. It’s two hours out of Bangkok, Thailand. They can help with weight, detoxing—they even ask if you’re going through anything emotional because they have treatments for that.

Airline: I have my miles in Cathay Pacific, but I also love Singapore Airlines—you feel really pampered. And British Airways, when they used to fly to Manila.

Shopping
Usual haunts: In New York, The Bowery for cooking utensils and restaurant equipment, Zabar’s, Global Table, J.B. Prince, Bridge Kitchenware, Strand Bookstore. In Paris, Dehillerin nearly brings me to tears when I walk in. In Milan, Peck, a foodie haven.

Best bargain purchase: My Club 21 pepper mill that I got for US$3.

Most unusual purchase: A gigantic 36-inch-high pepper mill! I had to have it shipped from London.

Purchase you regret the most: I bought a whole pack of cheese and Bottarga caviar, which were really pricey, in Milan. I took it with me on the train and when I got to Rome it got lost!

Margarita’s Restaurant Recommendations

New York: Lupa Osteria Romana, ‘Ino, Craft, Fleur de Sel, Tomoe Sushi for sushi, Peter Luger Steakhouse for steaks, Shake Shack for burgers, Bar Jamon and Casa Mono for tapas, Momofuku Noodle Bar for the best noodle soup in pork broth, Pearl Oyster Bar for lobster rolls and the best Butterscotch sundaes, Via Quadronno for porchetta and the best espresso (just like Italy), Chikalicious for dessert.

Rome: Ristorante ‘34’, Vecchia Roma, Sora, Lella, Al Ceppo, my secret trattoria on Via della Panetteria and gelato at Gelateria San Crispino, Ristorante Alla Rampa, ‘Gusto for pizza, the salad bar, and late-night cookbook and cookware shopping, Filleto di Baccala at a kiosk off Campo dei Fiori.

Venice: Da Fiore.

Florence: Ristorante e Veneria alle Murate, “J” on Borgo San Jacopo, Trattoria Cammillo, Il Gelato Vivoli, Ristorante Il Lattini, Il Cibreo.

Milan: Latteria di San Marco, Il Panini della Befi, Ristorante Il Girrarosto, Trattoria Alle Langhe, Luini for panzerotti, Cracco-Peck, which has an experimental chef. I like to go to the deli and look at all their beautiful food—for me it’s like going to the Vatican, you want to pray!

Paris: Chez L’Amis Louis, Benoit, my secret little bistro on rue Etienne-Marcel, L’Ardoise Paris, La Regalade, L’Os a Moelle.

Hong Kong: Spring Moon, Wu Kong Shanghai, Yee Shanghai, Yung Kee Nishimura for grilled chicken heels!

Singapore: Din Tai Fung, Oso Ristorante.

San Francisco: Quince Restaurant, A 16, Delfina Restaurant, Mama’s for brunch.